Ngemva kokushintshana nge-imeyili kweshumi nambili nochwepheshe wezinto zomklami we-Chanel, namahora ayisishiyagalombili wokuskrola emakhulwini ezithombe zesikhwama, bengingakabi nayo impendulo.
Ngangimthumelele izithombe ezingu-10 ngezinhlangothi ezihlukene, ngihlehlise futhi ngihlehlise, zesikhwama semali sikaChanel okwakungekamama wami ongasekho.Ngakuthola phakathi kwezinto zakhe ngemva kweminyaka eyishumi eshonile.
Sasizingela isitembu esithi “Made in Italy” noma “Made in France”, nakuba avuma ngeminyaka yesikhwama semali ukuthi ngabe sasihlehla.
"I-Chanel embossing ilungile futhi isikhumba sihambisana nesikhumba 'se-caviar'," wabhala."Ngisho nesitayela siyafana nesiqephu sakudala seChanel."
Ndawana-thile ngemva kokufunda konke okuthunyelwe kubhulogi yesikhwama esukela ngo-2012, ngamukela ukuthi okwase kuqale njengelukuluku kwase kudlule ngokushesha ekuthatheni izinqumo.Lapho ngingayazi into engiyaziyo, kahle-hle, ngiyazi, iyangidla.Bengicwaninga ngezikhwama.Lokhu bekungekona ukucwila kumarekhodi omphakathi noma amalogi edatha njengoba ngijwayele endimeni yami njengentatheli yebhizinisi, bekuyizikhwama zomklami zakudala.Nokho, angikwazanga ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izikhwama enganginazo zaziyiqiniso.
Ngaqala ukuthenga izingubo zami eziningi kanye nezinto ezisetshenziswayo eminyakeni emibili edlule ngenxa yezizathu ezimbalwa: imithelela yemvelo, ukonga kanye nokutuswa kwezinto ezindala, ezisezingeni eliphezulu esikhundleni semfashini esheshayo eyakhiwe kabi.Manje, ngase ngiqaphela izingibe zokuba i-vintage hound kanye no-thrifter njalo.
Ngokuthi izinto zakudala zibe “zingaphakathi” kanjani, abaqinisekisi bobungcweti bathi izikhwama ezindala sezinyukile.Igagasi elisha lezinto zomgunyathi lihle kangangokuba libizwe ngokuthi “ama-superfakes.”Uma lokho kungahlanya ngokwanele, ama-dupes amahle avela eminyakeni engama-30 edlule asantanta.
Akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi izikhwama ezimbili zangaphambi kowezi-2000 ze-Dooney ne-Bourke engisanda kuzithuthukisa zibe mbumbulu - kanjalo nesikhwama semali sakudala se-Chanel engangithemba ukuthi sizoba ifa lomndeni.
Izikhwama zomgunyathi aziyona inkinga entsha.Kodwa ngokukhula kokuthengwa kwezinto ezisetshenziswayo, izikhwama zomgunyathi azikhuphuki kumaGoodwills nezitolo zokuthenga kuphela, kodwa futhi kumawebhusayithi ezimpahla zikanokusho, njengeRealReal, athembisa ubuqiniso.
I-RealReal, eyaphumela obala ehlobo enenani elicishe libe ngamaRandi ayizigidi eziyizinkulungwane ezingu-2.5, kutholakale ukuthi ithengisa izimpahla zomgunyathi ngamanani aphambili, ngokusho kwemibiko emibili yakamuva evela kwaForbes kanye ne-CNBC.Izinto - eyodwa, isikhwama se-Christian Dior esingumgunyathi esinenani lika-$3,600 - singene kochwepheshe bale webhusayithi.
Inkinga?Abanye okufakazela ubuqiniso be-RealReal, ngokwaleyo mibiko, baqeqeshwe kakhulu ekubhaleni ikhophi emayelana nemfashini kunokuqinisekisa izimpahla zomklami.Kubonakala sengathi, babengekho ochwepheshe beqiniso abanele bokuphatha i-inventory enkulu i-RealReal eyayithola njengoba ithola ukuduma.
Uhlobo ngalunye lomklami lunolimi lwalo, izingqinamba zalo.Izikhwama zami ezimbili kanye nesikhwama semali?Bebengenazo izinkomba zokuthi bangempela ama-blogger esikhwama (kunenqwaba yama-blogger esikhwama) azokutshela ukuthi uthole kuqala: omaka abathungelwe ngaphakathi nezinombolo ze-serial.Kodwa lokho akuvamile ngezinto zakudala.
Yilokho okungenze ngathumela i-imeyili uJill Sadowsky, ophethe ibhizinisi eliwubukhazikhazi lokuthunyelwa kwempahla ku-inthanethi kuphela e-Jacksonville, JillsConsignment.com.Wayenguchwepheshe wami weChanel.
“Kunzima ukufundisa lezi zinto,” kusho uSadowsky ocingweni.“Kuthatha iminyaka yesipiliyoni.Udinga ukwazi ukuthi uhlobo lwefonti lulungile, ukuthi iyiphi ikhodi yosuku, uma ihologram ilungile.”
Ukuzama ukuqinisekisa izikhwama zami kungibonise inkinga yokusebenza kwamasekeni amakhulu ebhekene nayo.Ubaqeqesha kanjani abasebenzi ukuthi bafunde, ngokushesha, lokho okuthathe ochwepheshe abaningi amashumi eminyaka ukukwazi?
Ngemva kwesonto ngifunda zonke izinkundla, indatshana kanye nokuthunyelwe kwebhulogi engangikuthola, ngabona ukuthi angikwazanga ukunquma ukuthi izinto zami zomklami engizikhonzile zazingokoqobo yini.Ngangiwuzonda umqondo wokuthi ngingaba nezigigaba ezisezingeni eliphezulu ezithungwe yizingane ezisebenza ezindaweni zokujuluka zakwamanye amazwe.
Ngithenge i-Dooney & Bourke yami yokuqala kulo Mfumfu esitolo esithengisa izinto e-Atlanta.Ibonise iminyaka yayo, kodwa ingibize u-$25 kuphela.Okwesibili, ngathola e-Closet ka-Plato yendawo ngo-Black Friday, okungeyona indawo evamile yokuthola isikhwama se-vintage.Kodwa ama-90s abuyile manje, futhi isikhwama sasibukeka sisisha sha.I-kelly green yayisakhanya futhi ngangingeke ngiyishiye lapho.
Ngesikhathi ngihamba ngemoto ngiya ekhaya, ngase ngiqiniseka ukuthi ngiyidlalile imali yami.Lesi sikhwama besibukeka sisisha kakhulu uma kucatshangelwa ukuthi bekumele sibe ngesasekuqaleni kwawo-1990.Futhi yini eyangenza ngaba nesiqiniseko esingaka ngobuqiniso besikhwama esimnyama engangisicoshe ngenyanga edlule e-Atlanta?Ngangibona ukuthi bobabili bayisikhumba sangempela, kodwa lokho akwanele ngaso sonke isikhathi.
Bengizingela izithombe engizoqhathanisa nazo izikhwama zami.Kodwa abaklami abashicileli okusalela emuva kwezikhwama zabo ezindala noma iziqondiso zokuqinisekisa, njengoba abazenzisi bengazisebenzisa ukuze baqhubeke nokuba ngcono.
U-JoAnna Mertz, umthengisi wase-Missouri kanye nochwepheshe we-Dooney & Bourke, uthembele eqoqweni lakhe eliyimfihlo lamakhathalogi afaka amashumi eminyaka ezikhwama zesikhumba zohlobo lwazo zonke izimo zezulu.Amanye, wakhokha amakhulu amaRandi ukuze awathole.Uchithe iminyaka efunda lo msebenzi kowayengumakadebona uDooney.
Kuvamile ukuthi umgunyazi abe uchwepheshe weqiniso koyedwa, noma mhlawumbe ambalwa, amabhrendi omklami - hhayi wonke.Ikakhulukazi kuma-legacy brand osekuphele amashumi eminyaka ikhona, eshintsha njalo isitayela, i-hardware, uphawu, amathegi, izitembu nezitikha.Luningi ulwazi lokuqongelela.
"Ngokujwayelekile ngidinga nje ukubona isithombe futhi ngiyazi ngokushesha," kusho uMertz."Kukhona izithandani ezicishe zangikhohlisa."
Njalo ngeviki abantu bangena kuwebhusayithi ka-Mertz - VintageDooney.Com - futhi bamthumele i-imeyili ngokuphelelwa yithemba.(Unikeza isevisi yakhe ngamadola ambalwa.) Ngokuvamile, kufanele aveze izindaba: Uxolo, ukhishiwe.I-Mertz yenza inqubo ibukeke ilula.Kodwa nakhu ukuthi kungani kungenjalo.
Ama-logo asezikhwameni zami athungelwe endaweni yawo, anganamathiselwe kuzo zombili izikhwama - kuhle.Umthungo wawungumthunzi olungile wophuzi, futhi muhle.Kodwa isikhwama esimnyama sasineziphu yethusi nge-brand "YKK".Iningi lika-Dooney linaziphu zohlobo lwe-Italian “RIRI.”Isikhwama esimnyama sasingenawo umaka othungelwe onenombolo ye-serial, amabhulogi angitshele ukuthi ayilungile.Isikhwama esiluhlaza sasinqanyulwe ithegi yenombolo ye-serial, kusale imicu embalwa ngemuva.
Ihadiwe yesikhwama ingaba ukhiye kule nqubo.Nginqume ukuthi isikhwama sami esimnyama kumele ngabe bekungumgunyathi omuhle impela kusukela kuma-80s noma 90s ngoba besingenayo uziphu yesi-Italian.Ngendlela obuhlaza ngayo obubukeka busha, nginqume ukuthi kungaba i- knockoff entsha yedizayini yakudala.
U-Mertz wangilungisa: Zombili zazingokoqobo, futhi zombili ziyizikhwama zangaphambi kwesikhathi kusukela ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-80s noma ekuqaleni kwawo-90s.Pho kungani konke ukungahambisani nalokho engikuthole ezinkundleni zokuxhumana?Akukhona ukuthi babenephutha - ukuthi nje kukhona okuguquguqukayo okuningi.
Isikhwama esimnyama sakhiwe ngaphambi kwesikhathi, ngaphambi kokuthi u-Dooney aqale omaka abathungelwe ngezinombolo.Nakuba uziphu we-“YKK” ubungajwayelekile, usetshenziswe esikhwameni engisitholile.Ngokuqondene nesikhwama esiluhlaza?Ukubukeka kwayo njengokusha kuwubufakazi bokuthi izikhwama zesikhumba zika-Dooney ezithwala zonke zezulu zingabambelela kanjani.Ithegi kungenzeka yasikwa ngoba, emuva ngeminyaka yawo-1990, u-Dooney wasika izinombolo ze-serial ezikhwameni ayezibona zinokungapheleli okuncane.Lezo zikhwama zizothengiswa ngesaphulelo ezitolo.
Kodwa abenzi bomgunyathi baze basebenzise leyo nugget yesikhathi esidlule sika-Dooney futhi basika amathegi abo emizamweni yokudlulisa amanga abo njengezikhwama zokuphuma.Ngokujulile, le nqubo iyahlanya.Ezinye izinto eziwumgunyathi zizoba nazo zonke izinkomba ezibalulekile isikhwama okufanele kufanele sibe sangempela: omaka, inombolo yomkhiqizo, izitembu, amakhadi obuqotho - futhi kube yiqiniso ngokuphelele, kwesinye isikhathi idizayini engakaze yenziwe umkhiqizo.
Ngiyazi ukuthi kaningi kangakanani izinto ze-Chanel zenziwe ngomgunyathi.Ama-Dooney awashibhile, kodwa alawuleka kakhulu kunamanye amabhrendi asezingeni eliphezulu cishe ngama-$200 kuya ku-$300 amasha.Kwa-Chanel, isikhwama semali esincane singasebenzisa u-$900.
Lapho ngiqala ukuzwa isikhumba sikamama sesikhwama semali esithambile, ngacabanga ukuthi lokhu kufanele kube okwangempela.Ngaphandle, umama wami wayewuhlobo lwe-Mickey-Mouse-ovavali kakhulu kunohlobo lwe-wallet ye-$900-luxury-wallet.Akekho emndenini wakithi owayengangitshela ukuthi wayithola kanjani.Ubaba wami waqagela ukuthi kungenzeka ukuthi kwakusohambweni lokumodela alithatha eliya eNew York City eminyakeni engamashumi amabili ngaphambi kokuba abe umama owayengasoze akhipha amakhulu amadola ukuze athole isikhwama semali.
Njengomama wami, ngiyigcina isongwe ngendwangu emnyama, ngiyifake ngaphakathi kwekhadibhodi elimnyama elithi “CHANEL” ngezinhlamvu ezimhlophe ezigqamile phezulu.Ngezinye izikhathi ngiyayikhipha ukuze ngiyisebenzise njenge-clutch emishadweni.Ngibukise kuma-prom ami amancane nabadala.
Kodwa ukulangazelela kwami ukuthola ukuthi izikhwama zami eziqoqiwe zopha ngempela yini ekugcineni ngifike phansi kwesikhwama se-Chanel.Ingabe lona bekuwumkhohlisi omuhle ngempela?
"Ngizovuma," uSadowsky wayezongitshela kamuva ocingweni."Kwangiphatha kabi kakhulu kuze kube yilapho i-hardware."
Lapho ngiskena yonke isentimitha yesikhwama semali ukuze ngithole umkhondo, ngathola embhalweni omncane oqoshiwe endaweni ebiyelwe ngokuzenzakalelayo, amagama athi “Juen Bang.”Umkhiqizi we-snap, uSadowsky ungazise, uChanel akakaze asebenzise.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, uthe ngenkathi iziphu zegolide ze-Chanel-logo zibukeka zilungile, izixhumanisi eziwavikela kuziphu azilungile kumkhiqizo.
Wathi, ngakho-ke, isikhwama semali sasingelona iqiniso.Kodwa futhi akuzange kubonakale kuwumgunyathi.Isikhumba, ulwelwesi, isitayela kanye nokuthungwa konke kwakubonakala kufana neChanel yangempela.
USadowsky ungitshele ukuthi kunezimo ezimbili okungenzeka ukuthi: isikhwama semali kungenzeka ukuthi sashintshwa ihadiwe ngomzamo wokusilungisa kabusha, noma isikhwama sokuqala saphucwa izingxenye ezithile.Lokho kusho ukuthi othile ubengase akhiphe ngamabomu iziphuphu zangempela zelogo ye-Chanel azozisebenzisa esikhwameni mbumbulu ukuze asisize sidlule njengokwangempela.
Kuvele ukuthi ngingumnikazi wesikhwama semali se-inbetweenie Frankenstein, esibonakala njengesiphetho esifanele, esinganelisi ngokuphelele kulolu hambo olukhathazayo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jan-11-2020